‘It's about letting the wine do the talking’

Loris Lenzo has been restaurant manager and sommelier at the Einstein Gourmet restaurant in St. Gallen since 2020. In October, the trained chef and restaurant specialist was honoured with the 2024 Michelin Sommelier Award.

Loris Lenzo, how do you explain your success as a sommelier?

Diligence and curiosity are necessary, but above all, a great deal of passion. I also have a healthy sense of self-criticism and a down-to-earth attitude. You don't have to constantly reinvent everything, but you do have to practice your craft with dedication. It's important to me not to try to convince the guest of my personal taste in wine. Without my team, who support me and give me valuable time with the guests, I couldn't do my job to the same extent.

Why does a sommelier need to be hard-working?

It takes a lot of time to deepen your knowledge and keep the wine list up to date. Our wine cellar contains over 3,000 items, so it takes hard work to keep track of everything. I regularly go through the stock and check every bottle.

Have you tasted every wine?

I have tasted all the vineyards, but not every vintage. Now my opinion is highly valued by the guests, which is why I have been allowed to taste many vintages from various great producers. With one exception: Château Le Pin is the only rarity that I have not yet been able to taste.

How do you see your role as a sommelier?

The role of a sommelier involves a great deal of responsibility towards the guest, the kitchen and the business. I see myself as a mediator between the winery, the kitchen and the guest. On the one hand, this involves letting the wine speak for itself and, on the other hand, making recommendations that suit the guest's taste. To do this, I also study food and wine pairing a great deal. This is the creative side of the job.

How did your passion for wine begin?

After my apprenticeship as a chef, the final trip of my second apprenticeship in service took me to Champagne. In this special place, in the middle of the vines, I felt a special connection. This enthusiasm shaped me and sparked the spark, or rather the enthusiasm, for wine in me.

And this fascination continues to this day?

That is the prerequisite for my job. Wine brings people together, stimulates conversation and creates emotions. The exchange with our guests and the winemakers is very interesting. What is also fascinating is that the world of wine is full of surprises and new discoveries. There is always a certain momentum. That attracts me.

What does a wine have to have to make it onto your wine list?

It has to go well with the food and our guests, and be of high quality. It should also fit into our programme: we offer wines from Switzerland, France, Italy, Spain, Austria and Germany. We also aim for vintage depth and a mix of well-known wines, or so-called ‘blue chips’, and wines that are still to be discovered.

What trends do you see in terms of guests' preferences?

Trends come and go. In general, however, younger wine drinkers in our restaurant tend to opt for organic, biodynamic and natural wines. Meanwhile, older guests usually stick to classically produced wines.

What is your own view on natural wines?

As a sommelier, I can't afford to be blinkered. Our menu includes both natural and classic wines. Personally, I don't draw any strict boundaries: what matters to me is quality, regardless of the style, and that the wine moves me and gives me pleasure.

How important is Swiss wine in your selection?

Very important. The demand for local wines is growing throughout Switzerland, including here at Einstein. Accordingly, Swiss wines are a focal point of our programme, particularly from the Bündner Herrschaft region. It is also important to me that St. Gallen is represented.

How would you rate the quality of Swiss wine?

I can back that 100 per cent. Our winemakers have extremely high standards when it comes to the quality and typicality of their wines. They strive to reflect and develop the respective regions or locations. That never ceases to impress me.