He evokes emotions with his wine recommendations

Austrian-born Fabian Mennel has been a sommelier and restaurant manager at Restaurant Schäfli in Wigoltingen (TG) for six years. Now Gault Millau has named him ‘Sommelier of the Year 2025’.

Fabian Mennel, what is your recipe for success?

I'm not the kind of sommelier who impresses with extensive wine knowledge. Instead, I create a relaxed atmosphere and select wines that really suit our guests. My approach is to go back to the roots of gastronomy – to respond flexibly to our guests' wishes and not to dictate what they should drink.

What do you love most about your work?

No two days are the same. We don't offer fixed wine pairings, but instead cater to each guest individually, according to their tastes and preferences. If someone wants to drink something by the glass, I open a suitable bottle instead of offering classic open wines.

Which wines are particularly popular with your guests right now?

The Swiss boom is currently very strong. Wines from Piedmont are also doing very well, as they are perfectly suited to the season, for example a Nebbiolo with our truffle menu. Just before Christmas, we notice an increase in Bordeaux, as guests enjoy the festive mood and like to order good red wines.

You have been a sommelier at the ‘Schäfli’ for six years. How has the wine selection changed during that time?

In the past, people relied on familiar brands, and there were many classics from Spain, Tuscany and Bordeaux on the menu. Today, Burgundy and Piedmont are more strongly represented – and, of course, Switzerland.

What role do Swiss wines play?

A very important one. We are in Thurgau and only have wines from Eastern Switzerland and the Bündner Herrschaft on the menu. Many guests are surprised at how the quality of these wines has improved in recent years.

You are from Austria – were you also surprised by the quality of Swiss wine?

Yes, very much so! Since the majority of Swiss wine is consumed domestically, I knew little about it at first. But the wines here surprised me, especially the young generation of winemakers, who are creative and keen to experiment, and are bringing a breath of fresh air to the wine industry.

When you choose new wines, do you tend to consider your own preferences or the wishes of your guests?

The wishes of my guests are more important to me. If they mention a particular wine, I'm happy to look into it, and if the quality is right, I'll put it on the menu. It's about meeting the tastes of the guests, not my own. I also have wines on the menu that I personally would never order!

Which guests do you most enjoy advising?

For me, it's most satisfying when a guest relies on me completely and doesn't need a wine list. At the same time, I'm pleased when guests appreciate the wine list and ask specific questions. The wine list is like a business card for me, which I design with care.

Which guests tend to be difficult?

There are guests who like to drink certain bottles by the glass and then more or less dictate to me which ones I should open for them. But basically we get along with every guest. I'm relatively uncomplicated, you can also take a bottle home with you that you've started and drink it the next day for breakfast (laughs).

What is your most important piece of advice when it comes to food and wine pairing?

I don't think much of rigid wine recommendations. My motto is: if I have a good dish and a good glass of wine, then they go together well. How many milligrams of sugar or acid are in them is of secondary importance to me. Emotions are more important – a successful combination often creates beautiful moments for guests.

And what combination is your personal favourite?

One of my best experiences was in a restaurant in San Sebastian, where they served a whole turbot – with no side dishes, just white bread and a butter and olive oil marinade. We ate it with greasy fingers and drank a white Burgundy with it. The combination, the simplicity and the intense flavours – that's the perfect memory for me. If I didn't have much time left to live, I'd like to experience that again.